DIY Dry Mounting: Tools & Tips for Beginners

When I first heard about dry mounting, I wasn’t sure what it meant. But once I learned how it worked, I realized how useful it can be, especially for displaying prints, photos, or posters in a clean, professional way.

Dry mounting is a method of attaching artwork to a backing board using heat and pressure, with no wrinkles or bubbles left behind. It gives a smooth, flat finish that makes your piece look neat and polished.

I like that it’s a long-lasting option and keeps the artwork from shifting in the frame. It’s also helpful if you don’t want glass pressing directly against your print.

In this blog, I’ll explain what dry mounting is, how it’s done, and when you might want to use it. If you want a clean look that holds up over time, dry mounting might be just what you need.

What IsDry Mounting?

If you’ve ever dealt with wavy posters or floppy photo prints, dry mounting might be the solution you didn’t know you needed.

Dry mounting is a method I use to stick artwork, prints, or photos to a solid board.It’s clean, quick, and doesn’t use wet glue.

Instead, it uses a special adhesive sheet that is activated by heat or pressure. Once it’s heated, the adhesive melts and bonds the artwork smoothly to the backing. There are no ripples or bubbling, justa crisp, professional look.

You might wonder how this is different from wet mounting. Wet mounting uses glue or paste, whichcan cause warping or damage.Dry mounting avoids that by skipping the moisture altogether.

I usually reach for this method when I’m working with:

• Posters
• Photographs
• Art prints
• Vintage maps

It’s perfect for giving these pieces structure and support. However, since the bond is permanent, do not use it on valuable or original artwork. Dry mounting is simple, reliable, and makes your work look its best for most projects.

Required Tools & Materials for DIY Dry Mounting

When I started dry mounting, I thought I needed fancy tools. It turns outI just needed the right ones, not all the ones.

Mounting Boards

This is your base. Your artwork needs something firm to sit on. I usually pick from:

• Foam core – light and easy to cut.
• Mat board – has a nice finish, perfect for clean displays.
• Gatorboard – tougher, doesn’t bend or warp as much.
• Sintra board – plastic-based, super smooth and strong.

Adhesives

This is what holds everything together. You’ve got two main options:

• Heat-activated dry mount tissue – needs heat to stick.
• Pressure-sensitive (cold) adhesive sheets – press and stick, no heat required.

I use heat-activated most of the time because it lays flatter. But if I’m in a hurry or working on something small, the pressure-sensitive ones save me time.

Equipment

• Tacking iron or a steam-free household iron – yes, your regular iron can work.
• Dry mount press – totally optional, but helpful if you’re doing larger pieces.
• Release paper or silicone-treated parchment paper – this keeps the heat from burning or sticking to your artwork.

Cutting Tools

Clean cuts make your final piece look 10x better. I keep these on hand:

• Utility knife
• Mat cutter
• Metal ruler

Step-by-Step Guide to Dry Mounting

Dry mounting doesn’t have to be tricky. In this section, I’ll walk you through the process in simple, clear steps. Whether you’re using heat or pressure, you’ll learn how to prep, mount, and finish your piece like a pro.

Step 1: Prepare the Print and Mounting Tissue

Start by selecting the photographic print and a sheet of dry mounting tissue. The tissue is essentially a thin, solid layer of glue that activates with heat.

Place the dry mounting tissue directly on the back of the print. Make sure it covers the print completely, with no overhang.

Step 2: Tack the Tissue to the Print

Using a tacking ironset to medium heat, gently tack the tissue to the back of the print. Focus on the center area, make four small tacks spaced slightly apart, away from the edges.

This secures the tissue without causing any warping or melting. Avoid holding the iron in one place too long, as excessive heat can damage the print.

Step 3: Trim the Print and Tissue Together

Once the tissue is lightly tacked on, trim the tissue and print together using a roto-trimmer or a sharp utility knife. This ensures the adhesive and print are the exact same size.

Always trim after tacking; trimmingbeforehand can lead to a mismatch in size, requiring additional cuts and risking uneven edges.

Step 4: Choose and Inspect the Mounting Board

Select a mounting board appropriate for the project. Acid-free boardsare highly recommended to avoid long-term discoloration.

Whiteboards are often preferred for photography, while blackboards are commonly used in graphic arts.Make sure the board is clean and undamaged.

Step 5: Center the Print on the Board

Centering can be done using simple tools like a ruler or even a folded piece of scrap paper. One method involves pushing the print to one side of the board, measuring the extra space on the opposite side, dividing it in half, and marking that midpoint.

Alternatively, a folded paper edge can serve as a visual center guide. This technique is particularly helpful for those who struggle with measuring or math.

Step 6: Lightly Mark the Position

Use a sharp, soft-lead pencilto make small, erasable marks at the corners where the print will be placed.

Always use a white eraserif needed; pink erasers may leave stains or damage the board’s surface. These marks will help guide final placement without affecting the appearance.

Step 7: Align and Tack the Print

Align the bottom and side edges of the print to the pencil marks with a T-square. Carefully lift one corner and tack it lightly in place.

Repeat the process with the opposite corner. Once two corners are secured, the print will not shift, making it safe to tack the remaining two corners.

Step 8: Use the Mounting Press

Place the mounted piece face-up in a dry mounting press. To prevent damage, a protective cover sheet, such as release paper or silicone-treated parchment, must be placed between the print and the press lid.

Set the timer for about one minute, though the exact time can vary depending on temperature, paper type, adhesive, and board thickness. It’s better to underheat than overheat; if needed, the print can be returnedfor another cycle.

Step 9: Transfer to aCold Press (Optional)

Immediately after removing the mounted print from the hot press, place it into a cold pressfor 30 to 60 seconds.

This step helps prevent curling or warping, especially in humid or dry environments. While optional, it adds an extra level of protection to the final piece.

Dry mounting is a practical and effective way to create a polished, lasting display for photos, prints, or posters. With a little patience and attention to detail, beginners can achieve a clean, gallery-worthy finish.

To get a real feel for the process, watch this hands-on video by @edheckerman7159. It’s a relaxed, step-by-step walkthrough that shows exactly how dry mounting is done, from start to finish.

If you’re a visual learner, this video makes everything easier to follow and gives you a few extra tips you might miss in text. It’s like having a friendly instructor right beside you.

Tips for Best Dry Mounting Results

Dry mounting isn’t hard, but it does take a little care. Here’s what I’ve learned if you want your work to look clean and last.

• Practice first, always: Before I mount anything important, I test it. I grab an old photo or a cheap print. That way, if I mess up, it’s no big deal.
• Use better materials: I try to stick with archival-quality, acid-free boards and adhesives. They help your artwork stay bright and avoid yellowing over time. It’s a little more expensive, but worth it if you care about the piece.
• Keep your space clean: Dust, hair, and even a crumb have sneaked under a mount. Now,I wipe my table and tools before I begin. It takes two minutes and saves a lot of regret.
• Even pressure matters: I used to press with my hands, sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn’t. Now, I use a brayer or a clean roller.It spreads pressure evenly and flattens out bubbles.

These little habits changed the way my projects turned out, and they’ll help you, too. Take your time, start small, and getbetter each round.

When to UseDry Mounting

Dry mounting isn’t a one-size-fits-all solution. I’ve found it really useful, but only when used at the right time. If you’re working with non-archival prints, posters, or decorative pieces, dry mounting is a great option.

I use it when I want a smooth, professional look for something going into a frame, like an art print from a local shop or a travel poster for my office.

It’s especially helpful when the piece won’t be handled a lot. Once mounted, it stays flat and looks clean for the long haul.

But here’s the catch: don’t use dry mounting for anything valuable or delicate.

I never dry mount original artwork, signed prints, or anything limited edition. Once it’s mounted, there’s no going back, andheat or pressure can damage certain materials, like pastels or charcoal.

Dry Mounting: Use or Avoid?

I keep this list in mind before every project. It saves me a lot of regret.And if you’re not sure, it’s always better to hold off and double-check. Better safe than sorry, especially with something special.