If you own a Mitsubishi, understanding its bolt pattern is not just a technical detail. It’s a vital part of maintaining your car’s performance and safety.
Over the years, I’ve worked on a wide range of vehicles, and one thing I’ve learned is that a mismatched bolt pattern can lead to more than just a frustrating wheel installation.
It can compromise your vehicle’s handling, cause uneven tire wear, and even pose safety risks while driving.
The bolt pattern refers to the arrangement of bolt holes on your car’s wheel hub, typically measured as the number of holes and the diameter of the circle they form.
For example, a bolt pattern might be labeled as 5×114.3, meaning five bolt holes on a circle with a diameter of 114.3 mm.
Mitsubishi models vary in bolt patterns depending on the year and type, whether it’s a sporty Lancer, a family-friendly Outlander, or a rugged Triton.
Choosing wheels with the correct bolt pattern isn’t just about fitment, but it’s about ensuring optimal wheel alignment, preventing wear on suspension components, and maintaining proper tire balance.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through the specifics of Mitsubishi Bolt Patterns, how to identify yours accurately, and why this knowledge is crucial for wheel upgrades or replacements.
By the end, you’ll have the tools and insights to keep your Mitsubishi running at its best.
What is the Bolt Pattern for a Mitsubishi?
I’ve been working on cars for over a decade, and I know firsthand that understanding bolt patterns can feel overwhelming at first.
Let me share what I’ve learned about Mitsubishi bolt patterns in a way that’s easy to understand.
1. Overview of the Mitsubishi Bolt Pattern
Most Mitsubishi cars I work on use one of these bolt patterns:
- 5×114.3mm – This means five lug nuts in a circle that’s 114.3mm wide. I see this on newer models like the Outlander, Eclipse Cross, and ASX.
- 4x100mm – This pattern has 4 lug nuts in a 100mm circle. I often find this on older models like early Lancers.
When someone brings their Mitsubishi to my garage, the first thing I check is which pattern they have. Here’s what I commonly see:
- Outlander (2013-present): 5×114.3mm
- Lancer Evolution: 5×114.3mm
- Eclipse: 5×114.3mm
- Mirage (2012-present): 4x100mm
2. Key Measurements
Let me break down the three main measurements I look at:
PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter):
- This is just another name for a bolt pattern
- I measure this from the center of one lug hole to the opposite hole’s center
- Most modern Mitsubishis I work on use 5×114.3mm
Lug Nut Specs:
- Size: Most Mitsubishis I service use M12x1.5
- Torque: I always tighten to manufacturer specs (usually between 85-100 ft-lbs)
Wheel Offset:
- I typically see +38mm to +46mm on Mitsubishis
- This tells me how far in or out the wheel sits from the hub
- Getting this wrong can make wheels stick out too far or rub against the car
3. Why Knowing Your Mitsubishi’s Bolt Pattern is Essential
I can’t count how many times I’ve helped customers who bought the wrong wheels because they didn’t know their bolt pattern. Here’s why it matters:
Safety:
- Wrong patterns can cause wheels to vibrate
- Incorrect fitment can lead to uneven tire wear
- Proper mounting ensures your wheels stay securely attached
Money Savings:
- Knowing your pattern prevents buying the wrong wheels
- Saves time during wheel shopping
- Helps avoid return shipping costs
I always recommend writing down these numbers and keeping them handy. When you’re looking for new wheels, having this information ready makes the whole process much easier. I’ve learned that getting it right the first time saves both time and money.
Understanding Mitsubishi Bolt Pattern and Their Compatibility
1. Compatibility Across Different Mitsubishi Models
I’ve noticed that many Mitsubishi models can share wheels, which is great for flexibility. What I’ve learned about cross-compatibility:
Models with 5×114.3mm pattern:
- I regularly swap wheels between the Outlander and Eclipse Cross
- I’ve successfully fitted Lancer Evolution wheels on the ASX
- The Pajero Sport shares this pattern, making wheel options plentiful
Models with 4x100mm pattern:
- I often help customers share wheels between the Mirage and older Lancers
- I’ve found that early 2000s Colts can use the same wheels
What I’ve learned about model-specific compatibility:
- Year ranges matter – I always check the exact year before suggesting wheel swaps
- Some models changed patterns mid-generation (like the Lancer)
- I make sure to verify the center bore even when patterns match
2. Factors Influencing Bolt Pattern Compatibility
I’ve identified several key factors that affect wheel compatibility:
Load Rating:
- I never put passenger car wheels on SUVs – even if the pattern matches
- I check the weight rating, especially when working with Pajero or Outlander wheels
Hub Center Bore:
- I’ve learned that Mitsubishi uses different center bore sizes
- I often use hub-centric rings when needed for a perfect fit
- I make sure the center bore is either exact or larger than the hub
Wheel Construction:
- I pay attention to wheel strength ratings
- I consider driving conditions – off-road vehicles need stronger wheels
- I checked the spoke design for brake caliper clearance
3. Understanding Offset and Center Bore for Compatibility
I’ve discovered about these crucial measurements:
Offset Considerations:
- I find that most Mitsubishi passenger cars use +35mm to +46mm offset
- SUVs often need different offsets – I usually see +38mm to +45mm
- I’ve learned that changing offset affects:
- Brake caliper clearance
- Suspension component clearance
- Wheel arch fitment
Center Bore Tips:
- Most modern Mitsubishis I work on use 67.1mm center bores
- I keep these common center bore sizes handy:
- Lancer Evolution: 67.1mm
- Outlander: 67.1mm
- Older Lancers: 56.1mm
List of the Correct Mitsubishi Bolt Pattern
1. Bolt Patterns for Mitsubishi Sedans
| Model | Years | Bolt Pattern | Center Bore | Lug Size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lancer | 2008-2017 | 5×114.3mm | 67.1mm | M12x1.5 |
| Lancer Evolution | 2003-2016 | 5×114.3mm | 67.1mm | M12x1.5 |
| Mirage | 2012-Present | 4x100mm | 56.1mm | M12x1.5 |
| Galant | 2004-2012 | 5×114.3mm | 67.1mm | M12x1.5 |
| Lancer (Old Gen) | 2000-2007 | 4x100mm | 56.1mm | M12x1.5 |
Bolt Patterns for Mitsubishi SUVs and Trucks
| Model | Years | Bolt Pattern | Center Bore | Lug Size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Outlander | 2013-Present | 5×114.3mm | 67.1mm | M12x1.5 |
| Pajero/Montero | 2000-Present | 6×139.7mm | 67.1mm | M12x1.5 |
| Eclipse Cross | 2018-Present | 5×114.3mm | 67.1mm | M12x1.5 |
| Triton/L200 | 2015-Present | 6×139.7mm | 67.1mm | M12x1.5 |
| ASX/RVR | 2010-Present | 5×114.3mm | 67.1mm | M12x1.5 |
Comprehensive Table of Mitsubishi Bolt Patterns by Model and Year
| Model | Years | Bolt Pattern | Wheel Size | Offset Range | Recommended Torque |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lancer Evolution | 2008-2016 | 5×114.3mm | 18×8.5″ | +38mm to +44mm | 87 ft-lbs |
| Outlander PHEV | 2013-Present | 5×114.3mm | 18×7″ | +38mm to +46mm | 89 ft-lbs |
| Eclipse Cross | 2018-Present | 5×114.3mm | 18×7″ | +35mm to +45mm | 89 ft-lbs |
| Mirage | 2012-Present | 4x100mm | 14×4.5″ | +35mm to +45mm | 85 ft-lbs |
| Pajero Sport | 2015-Present | 6×139.7mm | 18×7.5″ | +38mm to +45mm | 89 ft-lbs |
| ASX | 2010-Present | 5×114.3mm | 17×6.5″ | +38mm to +46mm | 89 ft-lbs |
| Triton | 2015-Present | 6×139.7mm | 17×7.5″ | +35mm to +45mm | 89 ft-lbs |
I’ve found these measurements to be consistently reliable in my work. However, I always recommend double-checking your specific model’s specifications, as I’ve occasionally encountered regional variations.
How to Identify the Correct Bolt Pattern for a Specific Mitsubishi
1. Tools You Need for Measuring Bolt Patterns
Having the right tools makes all the difference. Here’s a complete toolkit for accurate measurements:
Primary Tools:
- Digital caliper (6-inch minimum) – Professional-grade tools like Mitutoyo offer the best accuracy
- Bolt pattern gauge – Both digital and analog versions help cross-verify measurements
- Steel measuring tape (at least 25ft) – Perfect for larger wheels and overall fitment
- LED flashlight with adjustable focus – Essential for inspecting hard-to-see areas
- Microfiber cleaning cloths – Keeps measuring surfaces spotless for accuracy
- Thread pitch gauge – Crucial for verifying lug nut specifications
- Digital angle gauge – Ensures proper wheel alignment
Secondary but Important Tools:
- Paint marker – Helps mark measurement points clearly
- Telescoping magnet – Perfect for retrieving dropped tools in tight spaces
- Small mirror on an extendable handle – Makes viewing behind the hub easier
- Digital camera or smartphone – Taking reference photos saves time later
- Notebook and pencil – Recording measurements immediately prevents errors
2. Step-by-Step Guide to Measure Mitsubishi Bolt Patterns
This is exactly how I measure bolt patterns, using the same process I’ve refined over years of working on Mitsubishis:
- First, I clean the hub area thoroughly. I’ve learned that dirt and rust can throw off measurements.
- For 4-lug patterns:
- I measure directly across from one hole to another
- I like to take this measurement at least twice to be sure
- On most Mirages I work on, this measurement is exactly 100mm
- For 5-lug patterns:
- I measure from the center of one hole to the outside edge of the hole farthest away
- Then I multiply this number by 1.701 (a trick I learned early in my career)
- Most modern Mitsubishis I measure to come out to 114.3mm
- For 6-lug patterns (like on the Triton):
- I measure directly across lug holes
- Usually comes out to 139.7mm in my experience
- I always measure the center bore:
- I insert my caliper carefully into the center hole
- I make sure to measure at several points for accuracy
- I write this number down immediately
3. Common Mistakes to Avoid When Identifying Bolt Patterns
Over the years, I’ve seen (and initially made) plenty of measurement mistakes. The big ones I now help others avoid:
- Measuring Errors I Watch Out For:
- I never measure from edge to edge of holes – always center to center
- I don’t guess at the pattern based on visual inspection
- I make sure not to confuse metric and imperial measurements
- Documentation Issues I’ve Learned to Avoid:
- I write down measurements immediately
- I include the unit of measurement (mm vs inches)
- I note the specific wheel position I measured
- Center Bore Mistakes I Help Others Prevent:
- I always measure the actual center bore, not the dust cap
- I check for any damage that might affect the measurements
- I make sure my measuring tool is perfectly level
I’ve found that taking these extra precautions saves time and money in the long run.
When I first started, I made the mistake of eyeballing measurements or assuming all models of the same year had identical patterns. Now I know better.
One final tip I always share: if you’re not completely confident in your measurements, measure again.
I still do this myself, even after years of experience. It’s much better to spend an extra few minutes measuring than to order the wrong wheels.
Comparisons Between Mitsubishi and Other Brands’ Bolt Patterns with Prices
1. Mitsubishi vs Toyota Bolt Patterns
| Vehicle Class | Mitsubishi Model | Pattern | Toyota Model | Pattern | Cross-Compatible? | Average Wheel Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Compact SUV | Outlander Sport | 5×114.3 | RAV4 | 5×114.3 | Yes | $150-200/wheel |
| Sedan | Lancer | 5×114.3 | Camry | 5×114.3 | Yes* | $140-180/wheel |
| Economy | Mirage | 4×100 | Yaris | 4×100 | Yes | $120-160/wheel |
| Large SUV | Pajero/Montero | 6×139.7 | 4Runner | 6×139.7 | Yes* | $180-250/wheel |
Note: While patterns match, always check the center bore and offset compatibility
2. Mitsubishi vs Honda Bolt Patterns
| Vehicle Class | Mitsubishi Model | Pattern | Honda Model | Pattern | Cross-Compatible? | Hub Bore Difference |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Compact SUV | Eclipse Cross | 5×114.3 | CR-V | 5×114.3 | Yes* | 2.1mm |
| Sport Compact | Lancer Evo | 5×114.3 | Civic Type R | 5×114.3 | Yes* | 1.8mm |
| Economy | Mirage | 4×100 | Fit | 4×100 | Yes | 0.9mm |
| Mid-Size SUV | Outlander | 5×114.3 | Pilot | 5×114.3 | Yes* | 2.3mm |
Hub-centric rings are needed for proper fitment
3. Price Comparison of Aftermarket Wheels and Adapters
Common Wheel Sizes and Prices:
| Size | Style | Mitsubishi Fit | Toyota Fit | Honda Fit | Average Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16″ | Economy | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | $120-150 |
| 17″ | Sport | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | $150-200 |
| 18″ | Premium | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | $180-250 |
| 19″ | Luxury | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | $220-300 |
Adapter and Spacer Costs:
| Type | Thickness | Purpose | Average Cost | Installation Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hub Centric Rings | 2-5mm | Bore Adaptation | $20-40/set | $30-50 |
| Wheel Spacers | 15-25mm | Fitment Adjustment | $60-100/pair | $40-60 |
| PCD Adapters | 25-30mm | Pattern Conversion | $120-180/set | $80-100 |
| Thread Converters | N/A | Stud to Bolt | $40-60/set | $30-50 |
Popular Brands and Price Ranges:
| Brand | Entry Level | Mid Range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Enkei | $140/wheel | $200/wheel | $300/wheel |
| Rays | $200/wheel | $300/wheel | $450/wheel |
| Work | $250/wheel | $350/wheel | $500/wheel |
| SSR | $220/wheel | $320/wheel | $480/wheel |
Additional Cost Considerations:
| Service | Average Cost | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Mounting & Balancing | $25/wheel | Each installation |
| TPMS Sensors | $45-65 each | As needed |
| Lug Nuts | $30-50/set | With new wheels |
| Alignment Check | $70-100 | After installation |
From my extensive experience fitting wheels across these brands, remember that prices can vary significantly based on:
- Regional availability
- Seasonal demand
- Finish options
- Construction method
- Brand reputation
- Material quality
How to Maintain Bolt Patterns on Your Mitsubishi
1. Importance of Regular Bolt Inspection and Cleaning
Regular inspection is absolutely crucial for maintaining your wheel bolts. During my weekly inspections in the garage, I always start by listening carefully for any unusual sounds while test-driving vehicles.
Squeaking, rattling, or any abnormal noises could indicate loose bolts that need immediate attention. Visual inspections are equally important. I’ve saved countless customers from potential disasters by catching early signs of rust or damage around lug nuts.
The brake dust pattern around wheel bolts can tell you a lot about their condition. Uneven patterns often signal loose bolts, while excessive buildup on one side might indicate alignment issues.
When checking bolts manually, it’s essential to wait until the wheels have cooled completely. Hot brake components can give misleading readings and potentially cause injury.
Through years of experience, I’ve learned that monthly maintenance makes a world of difference. Taking the wheels off completely allows for a thorough inspection of both the hub and bolt holes.
A quality wire brush is invaluable for cleaning mounting surfaces – you’d be amazed at how much debris can accumulate in just a few weeks of driving.
2. Preventing Corrosion and Damage to Wheel Bolts
Living in various climates has taught me that corrosion prevention requires different approaches depending on your location. In coastal areas, I always recommend using zinc-plated or stainless steel lug nuts.
The salt air can be incredibly harsh on standard components. A thin layer of anti-seize compound on the hub center (never the threads!) has saved many wheels from becoming stuck over time.
The key to preventing damage lies in proper installation and maintenance techniques. Impact wrenches might be quick, but they’re often the culprit behind damaged threads and stretched studs.
Hand tools, while requiring more effort, give you the feel and control needed for proper installation. After wet conditions, thoroughly drying the wheel area prevents moisture from settling in sensitive areas.
3. Ensuring Proper Torque Settings for Mitsubishi Wheels
Proper torque is critical for wheel safety and longevity. Throughout my career, I’ve seen the consequences of both over and under-torquing – neither is pretty.
The process starts with hand-tightening all lug nuts in a star pattern. This ensures even pressure distribution and prevents warping. Using a calibrated torque wrench for final tightening is non-negotiable.
Different Mitsubishi models require specific torque settings. The Lancer and Evolution models typically need 85-87 ft-lbs, while larger vehicles like the Outlander and Triton require slightly more at 89-92 ft-lbs.
These specifications aren’t just random numbers – they’re carefully calculated to provide optimal clamping force without damaging components.
A crucial step many overlook is re-checking torque after the first 50 miles of driving. New wheels tend to settle, and bolts can loosen slightly.
Monthly torque checks thereafter have prevented countless potential issues in my experience. Keeping detailed records of these checks helps track any patterns or recurring problems.
The satisfaction of properly maintained wheel bolts goes beyond just safety – they contribute to better handling, reduced wear, and peace of mind.
Whether you’re driving a sporty Lancer Evolution or a family-oriented Outlander, these maintenance principles remain the same. Remember, a little preventive care today can prevent major headaches tomorrow.
Conclusion
Understanding and maintaining the correct bolt pattern for your Mitsubishi is one of those small but critical details that every car owner should prioritize.
From my experience, ensuring your wheels are compatible with your vehicle’s bolt pattern not only enhances safety but also keeps your car performing at its best.
Whether you’re upgrading your wheels, replacing a damaged one, or just exploring options, knowing your Mitsubishi’s specific bolt pattern saves you time, money, and potential headaches.
I can’t stress enough the importance of double-checking your car’s specifications before making any changes. A quick look at your manual or an accurate measurement can make all the difference between a smooth installation and a frustrating ordeal.
If you’re ever uncertain, don’t hesitate to seek advice from a trusted expert or mechanic. By paying attention to this simple detail, you’re setting yourself up for a better, safer driving experience.
Keep your Mitsubishi running strong, and remember, every detail counts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How Often Should I Check My Wheel Bolts?
After thousands of inspections, I recommend checking your lug nuts weekly for tightness and doing a complete inspection monthly.
However, if you’re driving in harsh conditions or notice any vibration, check immediately.
My rule is that it is better to check too often than too late.
Why Do My Lug Nuts Keep Getting Loose?
This issue usually stems from several factors I frequently diagnose:
- Incorrect torque settings
- Debris on the mounting surface
- Damaged threads on studs or nuts
- Warped brake rotors
- Hub center misalignment The key is identifying the root cause rather than just retightening repeatedly.
Can I Use an Impact Wrench to Tighten My Lug Nuts?
While I own several impact wrenches, I never use them for final tightening.
They’re fine for removal and initial installation, but the final torquing must be done with a calibrated torque wrench.
Over-tightening from impact wrenches is one of the most common causes of stud damage I see.
How Long Do Wheel Studs Typically Last?
Based on my garage experience, properly maintained wheel studs can last the vehicle’s lifetime. However, factors that can shorten their life include:
- Over-torquing
- Cross-threading
- Corrosion
- Impact damage Regular inspection is key to maximizing their lifespan.
Is It Normal for Wheels to Need Re-Torquing?
Yes! From my experience, all wheels need re-torquing after initial installation. I always recommend:
- First check: After 50 miles
- Second check: After 100 miles
- Regular checks: Monthly thereafter